Saturday, October 13, 2007

Off to Molokai

One of our goals while we're here was to get over to see Molokai. With the baby on the way, we decided it better be sooner than later. Earlier this summer we began planning our trip and Noel warned me that the cheapest flights from Oahu to Molokai “are all on small planes.” I balked at first and said I wouldn’t go on one, but then he explained that most of the larger carriers farm out flights to small planes anyway, so we didn’t have much choice. Plus we’d save about $50 bucks. So I reluctantly agreed to let him book whatever he thought best, just don’t tell me about it! Of course, we get past security and Noel says, “You know we’re on a pretty small plane…”
Flying inter-island on small carriers from HNL does have a few advantages: parking, check-in, and security are super easy. You’re far from the masses heading back to the Mainland or Japan in an entirely different building across the street from the main airport. Our pilot - who we had to have had five years on - met us at the gate and took our tickets and then walked us out to the plane. His safety speech (issued while the engine was warming up and he was turned around in the pilot’s seat) was, “Don’t inflate your life vest until you’re in the water. Read the safety card for the rest of the instructions.” Our pilot on the return trip - again, we had five years on him - just said, “You can use the [safety] card as a fan.”
Another advantage with small planes is that you fly relatively low, so the aerial views of Honolulu, Waikiki, Diamond Head, Hawaii Kai, and Hanauma Bay were great. Noel got very excited and got out his camera and said, “You can put this in our blog!” And here they are. Diamond Head and Waikiki are below.
Molokai’s airport is in the middle of the island, giving us a good fly over of the area before we landed. I was really surprised it looked like a very harsh landscape. Not tropical at all, a lot of red dirt and flat terrain. I caught myself thinking, “Well, if we go down we won’t disappear into a forest and they will be able to find the wreckage quickly!”
The return trip via Pacific Wings is not for the fearful flyer…after re-tracing our outbound route over Waikiki and Honolulu, the pilot made a tight near-180 degree turn at what seemed like a 45-degree angle, hovering over the airport and adjacent crystal blue bays. Luckily, like the flight itself, the approach/landing didn’t last long. If you’ve got a yearning to see Molokai for yourself and you’re not into small planes, head to Maui first and then book a ticket on a ferry that runs from Maui to Molokai. (It’s not the Superferry. This service has been running many years.) Or do a little homework. Larger planes do fly into Molokai, so you can find out what island they depart from and start your trip there.

The Molokai Ranch Tentalows

There’s not much tourist development on Molokai, so not a lot of hotel options. Not saying that’s a bad thing at all, I didn’t mind. When Noel and I were looking for places to stay, we really fell for the the Molokai Ranch properties via the web site content. And even better, there was a main Lodge and a Beach Village 20 minutes away down a dirt road, right on the beach. Here’s a shot of the tents:
We decided to splurge for two days on the “ocean view” tentalow, versus the “path view” or “garden view” tentalow. Well, here’s the difference - Ocean view from our Tentalow ($218 / night):

Paths and gardens surrounding other Tentalows ($176 / night):

Yeah, a little disappointing, huh? The web site claims that one of the Tentalow clusters is $386 a night! I can’t figure out what you get for the money. I better check with Noel, I hope we didn’t pay that much!! They are also a wee bit more rustic than we thought. You have power to light your Tentalow cluster for about 5 hours. There’s a ceiling fan and many windows / zippered vents for circulation, but no electrical outlets. The bathrooms are across the platform, and the sink and toilet areas don’t have a roof. Surprisingly, the showers heat up pretty well, and it’s not as slimy as I feared. Overall, they were very clean. We didn’t have Robbie with us, but we discussed just how family-friendly the tents were …bottom line, fun for elementary kids and above, no fun for small toddlers and infants. But the rooms are separated, so the kids should be mature enough to be able to sleep in a room apart from the adults. The tents also are not the easiest to access via dirt paths and no ramps. And parking? They make you park a quarter-mile away at night. You can pull in kind of close to get your bags unpacked, but then you have to re-park. And don’t forget to bring a flashlight with you! They provide them in the room but not when you pick up your room key. So if you are checking in after dark you can’t see a thing. (We ran into a couple on our second night who couldn’t find their tent. The female was almost hysterical. As I pledged earlier, I need to keep this family-friendly, so I’ll say no more about what else happened!) Our first night in the tent was really hot, even with windows open and fan on. The mattresses are lousy and sheets were rough, so a good night’s sleep was hard to come by. Saturday night was much better. I think the combination of a cooler day in general and a day to air out the tent helped.

Hawaiian Monk Seal at “Tentalows” Beach

After arriving Friday afternoon, Noel wanted to check in before sunset, so we grabbed our rental car and headed straight to the hotel property. We found the Lodge easily, checked in, and then went down an unpaved dirt road for about 15 minutes to where the tents are. The shocks in the rental were horrible….over the weekend I reminded Noel to slow down many times; it was too bumpy for me!
We finally pulled up near the second check-in area and I hopped out to check the beach. Signs, signs, everywhere the signs warning you about Hawaiian Monk Seals! I got giddy, if there were so many signs, does this mean we were going to see one on the beach? I looked up, and I’m not kidding you, there was one on the other side of the beach. At least I guessed so. It looked like a rock from far away, but it was indeed a Monk Seal.
Hawaiian Monk Seals are highly endangered. Current estimates have the population hovering around 1200. They are also very aggressive creatures and are known to attack when disturbed. So all those warning signs made it clear – do not approach the Monk Seals! It’s not only illegal, you can get hurt. Still, Noel got adventurous while I stayed back. Here he is…yes, approaching the Monk Seal!
After a few minutes of watching this, I walked over (making a wide circle around the seal) to get a better look. We hung out with our cameras for an hour or so, watched the seal readjust his sleeping position a few times, and heard a few good snorts. They made me jump because I was so scared the thing would pop up and run after me and I wouldn’t be able to outrun it, but it was nothing. Coincidently, after we got back home I saw a news story about people behaving badly around Monk Seals. They reported that it is illegal to get closer than 100 feet at any time. But they also said that your behavior in this zone is equally important – you need to be quiet and leave them undisturbed if you find yourself too close. While we broke the law, we did use hand signals to communicate and were very conscious of disturbing them.
We really lucked out on this. I kept checking whenever I could, but we wouldn’t see any more seals on the beach the rest of the weekend.

First Morning on Molokai

On Saturday morning, Noel left me in our Tentalow while he headed back on the road to the Lodge and an appointment to get a massage. I checked the beach for more Monk Seals (no luck) and then had breakfast at the Tentalow dining area. Noel said he had waist-high “huge turkeys” hounding him for his food when he ate earlier, but by the time I arrived they must have corralled them or something because I was pleasantly surrounded by these not-so-timid birds. After breakfast, I grabbed my book and sat in the shade near the beach, waiting for Noel to finish up at the Lodge. Not one to enjoy sitting around the beach, even with a book in my hands, I found myself saying over and over how bored I was, and how Noel better get there quickly so we could head off! Later I realized it had been a huge mistake not to join Noel up at the Lodge and go swimming in their pool. It was a very small pool by Hawaii hotel standards, but oh-so inviting! I blew it as we wouldn’t have time for the rest of the weekend.

Friday, October 12, 2007

Father Damien’s Churches

After reading through a few guide books, I’d decided that one of the few “must dos” for the weekend would head out to Kalaupapa, home of the infamous leper colony. I knew you had to take a mule ride down to the actual colony area and that was not a possibility for me, but I thought the town was at least accessible. But Noel asked around and discovered there were three ways to get there: small chartered plane, 4 mile hike, or the mules. No driving options. Noel tentatively threw out the idea of the hike, but I’m just not fit enough (and coming off a week and a half where I was fighting a bad cold made things worse). We also couldn’t get a good sense of the trail. It sounded pretty difficult in some areas, so it was a no-go. I was disappointed, but what can you do? Luckily Father Damien’s good works were not centered in Kalaupapa. There are two churches he built on the accessible side of the island, right off the main roads.

Halawa Park – Eastern Molokai

We spent Saturday afternoon and evening driving around parts of the island. First up, down the two-lane highway toward Halawa Park, on the eastern tip of the island. The drive is long and windy, but offers scenic views if you stop every now and then to stretch your legs. I also stopped to take pictures of the Nene bird crossing signs (see next post). (The Nene is the state bird . We didn’t see any along that particular drive, but later in the day at a different part of the island Noel spotted one. I missed it.)
We hit Coconut Grove Park just in time for sunset, but Noel was really disappointed with the shooting angles and couldn’t get the reflection on the water (like the guide book said you could!), so we hopped in the car and tried to get back to the Tentalows to catch the sunset along the beach there…but missed it.

Sunday Morning on Molokai


We had a Noon flight back to Honolulu, so we packed up at the tentalow and headed up the road to have breakfast at the Lodge, then on to Kaluakoi Golf Resort, another hotel property five minutes away to sneak in a few more pictures.

Molokai Photo Parade

Here are a bunch of random photos from our weekend. Some hits, some misses!



Thursday, October 11, 2007

Elele Street Photo Parade

Here are a bunch of shots we finally got off the camera. They're all taken around our house. Half of the Molokai shots have been downloaded, but we can't find one last card (!) so I'll wait a little longer to post our Molokai adventures. That card also has the lunar eclipse shots...so I'm anxiously awaiting it's discovery.
The shot on the right I consider a "miss." I'm still working on my macro techniques, specifically depth of field. Plus, I was lazy and didn't get out the tripod, which is the right way to do things! But I really like the composition. Luckily, this plant is right outside our front door, so I'll be checking for more chances to get it right.
Here's a snail on another plant in our front yard. It's a bit deceiving, but the snail is really huge, probably slightly smaller than my fist. I couldn't get anything in the shot to contrast the size.

Here is a yellow rose which I lucked out with. Again, working on those macro techniques without a tripod is not the smartest thing to do! We now have five rose bushes planted in our side yard. Four planted by a landscaper, one by me. I don't touch these plants at all and they grow like weeds. I do not have a green thumb, it's just the climate and the hardy varieties. I just planted a bush that is growing well (hasn't bloomed yet) but the blooms should be a deep, luscious red and I can't wait to see them.

Sexy Beast

Noel asked me recently why I take so many pictures of Robbie sleeping. I don't know, maybe I just think he's so darn cute! Plus, lately he "smiles" for the camera by scrunching up his face, so awake shots aren't that good. Here's another one where he's racked out. I can't figure out why his shirt is off, it must have been a day where I was being cheap and didn't turn the AC on.

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

Johnny and the Prize Winning Pumpkin

As previously mentioned, we think cousin Johnny has a lot more fun than we do! Here he is making a splash in the Bay Area while attending the annual Half Moon Bay Pumpkin Festival. According to Dad, "This is the segment that ran on the SF Bay Channel 2 news today (Monday, October 8). The little boy at the end is none other than Johnny." And yes, that is Brad in the shadows of the pumpkin behind Johnny in the video piece. Check out these other links!

October 10 update:
I hadn't read Tuesday's Honolulu Advertiser before I posted the info above. I was skimming it Tuesday afternoon, and guess who was in it? Johnny! This picture had been picked up by the Advertiser via the AP and it was on page 3, complete with his name and brief caption. Have you seen it in your local paper, too?

Johnny Makes Blog Debut

Here's Johnny, Robbie and Jacob's cousin, at the San Francisco Zoo in mid-September. Isn't he a love? How we wished we were there, too! Following quickly on the heels on his debut here, I will be posting a tale of Johnny and a big pumpkin. I think Johnny has a lot more fun than Robbie. ;)

Sunday, October 7, 2007

Jake is here!

He's here, arriving over a week early on October 3 at 10:02 PM at the Tripler Army Medical Center in Honolulu, HI. Weighing in at 8 lbs and measuring 19.25 inches long, Jacob McMahon Tipon, or Jake, is shown above on October 5. More pictures and stories to follow!